Calendar of the main work with strawberries. Strawberry varieties


Strawberry nuances

Calendar of the main works on the strawberry plot

In the spring, when the earth thaws and dries up(end of April - first half of May):

  • Removing old leaves from plants - first with a broom or a soft fan rake, then cut dry leaves with a pruning shears.
  • Disinfection of plants by watering them from a watering can over the leaves with a 0.1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g per 10 l) of water with the addition of 30 g of laundry soap or a solution of pink solution of potassium permanganate, 10 drops of iodine and 1 teaspoon of boric acid (10 l solution).
  • Loosening the soil around each plant, sprinkling the exposed roots with earth.
  • Feeding and disinfection of plants by watering them from a watering can with a warm solution (65 ° C) of potassium permanganate and boric acid.
  • Preventive treatment of plants from gray rot with iodine solution (10 drops per 10 liters of water).
  • Feeding plants with complex fertilizers (Effect, Vita, Stimul, Kemira, etc.). For a bush, 2 liters of solution from 1-2 tbsp. spoons of complex fertilizer in a bucket of water.
  • Feeding plants with ash - 1-2 glasses per 1 square meter of the garden.
  • Sowing marigolds or garlic between rows.

During the growing season(June August):

  • Watering once every 10 days.
  • Top dressing with ash 1 time per 10 days, sprinkling around the bush and in the aisles.
  • Mustache trimming once every 2 weeks.
  • Loosening of row spacings - once every 10 days.

Before flowering and during the growth of ovaries(July):

  • Foliar feeding of plants with a solution of micronutrients.
  • Top dressing with infusion of mullein or bird droppings (1 liter per bucket of water with the addition of 1/2 glass of ash).
  • Watering after flowering, while pouring berries and after harvesting.
  • Tying bushes, mulching, wire pulling.

After harvest (immediately!)(August):

  • Cutting out old leaves, peduncles, whiskers.
  • Abundant watering of the plants (10 days after the destruction of old leaves).
  • Loosening the soil.
  • Disinfection of plants by watering from a watering can with a 0.3% solution of copper oxychloride (30 g per bucket of water) or the same solution of copper sulfate.
  • Feeding plants with a solution of pink potassium permanganate, and for better root formation with a solution: 50 g of superphosphate and 0.5 cups of ash per bucket of water with the addition of 1 liter of mullein or bird droppings infusion.

Strawberry varieties

Sudarushka

Variety of medium ripening, semi-spreading bush, medium height. Peduncles are of medium length and thickness, and inflorescences are located at and below the leaves. Differs in good shoot-forming ability and gives seedlings of good quality.

Large oval berries. Berries of the first harvest reach 34 g. Berries of subsequent harvests do not change their shape, but slightly become smaller. The pulp of berries is sweet and sour taste, juicy, red, with aroma.

Productivity - up to 1.5 kg / sq.m.

The variety is winter-hardy, highly resistant to wilting diseases, but moderately affected by fungal diseases.


Tsarskoye Selo

A variety of medium ripening. Semi-spreading, densely leafy bush of medium height, semi-spreading, multi-flowered inflorescences on peduncles of medium length and thickness are located below the level of the leaves.

Berries with dark red flesh have a sweet and sour taste. In the first collection, their weight reaches 35 g, but in subsequent collections they shrink to 12-14 g, but the correct oval shape is preserved. Berries of the Tsarskoselskaya variety are well gelled, which makes them an excellent raw material for processing.

The highest yield of the variety is 1.8 kg / sq.m.

The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to fungal diseases and wilt diseases.


Marvelous

A variety of medium ripening. Tall, compact, medium leafy bushes. Since large leaves are located on a thick long petiole, and multi-flowered, semi-spreading inflorescences are located on long, thick peduncles with sparse pubescence, the bush is well blown by the wind.

The variety “Divnaya” has a mass of berries of all collections of 15-18 g, and the mass of berries of the first collection reaches 38 g. Fragrant berries with a light red, juicy pulp have a sweet and sour taste and a red color. Their form is blunt-conical.

The yield of the variety is high - up to 1.6 kg / sq.m.

The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to fungal diseases and wilt diseases.


Festivalnaya

The main variety is of medium ripening. Plants are tall, densely leafy, slightly spreading. The leaves are large, dark green. Peduncles at leaf level, slightly spreading, with a small number of flowers. The flowers are white, bisexual, the pedicels are long, thin.

Berries of the first collection are 40 g, the average weight is 18-20 g. As a result of the accretion of flowers in the inflorescence, the formation of very large berries up to 50 g, resembling a cockscomb in shape, is characteristic. The pulp is pink, juicy, tender, sweet and sour. The palatability is high - 4.5 points.

The yield is high - 1.8 kg / sq.m.

Advantages: good transportability, high yield, large fruit size, beautiful appearance, dessert taste and high vitamin content, high winter hardiness.

Disadvantage: affected by powdery mildew and strawberry mites.


Junia Smides

Early middle term.

The berries are broadly ovate, slightly ribbed, with a small neck, cups with raised sepals. The berries are light red with a delicate, aromatic pulp of light red or pink. Average weight 7.9 g, maximum - 31.

The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to major pests and diseases.


Zarya

An early variety of strawberries. The bush is strong, compact, begins to bear fruit in the second year. Inflorescences are multi-flowered, spreading.

Fruits are medium - 18 g, aligned, bright red, shiny, ovoid. The taste is pleasant, ripen at the same time in the early stages. Harvest up to 1.5 kg / sq.m.

The variety is resistant to white spot, weakly affected by rot, medium - strawberry mite and stem nematode.

The variety is winter-hardy. High transportability.

The advantages of the variety are early ripening, good type of berries, high winter hardiness of the bushes. Gives many mustaches and rosettes.

Disadvantage: medium-sized berries, average yield.


Zenga-Zengana

German strawberry variety. Leaves are medium, dark green, shiny. Peduncles are low and strong, located at the level of foliage.

Fruits with a brown tint. The first berries are large, broadly rounded, heart-, kidney- or wedge-shaped. The pulp is red, dense, juicy, aromatic, with a pleasant sweet-sour taste. Achenes are moderately submerged.

Ripening period - late. Productivity 1.5-2 kg / sq.m. It is widely used in breeding.

The variety is resistant to strawberry brown spot and powdery mildew.

Susceptible to gray rot and strawberry septoria, relatively resistant to nematodes.

Winter hardy. The variety is especially picky about soil fertility.


Moscow delicacy

(F1 hybrid strawberry). The variety is both remontant and large-fruited (average weight of berries is 15 g, maximum - up to 35 g). Fruiting from May until frost.

The combination of remontant and large-fruited results in a high yield - 0.8-1.5 kg of selected berries can be harvested from one plant per season. The collection of its berries begins 4-6 months after sowing the seeds or 1-3 months after planting the seedlings.

The Moscow delicacy is neutral with respect to daylight hours and does not require mandatory exposure to negative temperatures. Plants of the Moscow delicacy are resistant to low light. Therefore, they can be grown all year round in greenhouses or in a room.

Plants of this hybrid are vigorous, easy to grow and do well in a variety of soil types.


Yongseok

Medium ripening variety, bred in Norway from crossing Zenga-Zengana and Valentine varieties. The bush is of medium size, compact, medium leafy. Leaves of medium size, dark green with a bluish tint, slightly shiny. Inflorescences are compact, located at the level of the leaves.

The berries are even in shape and size, the weight of the first collection is 14.2 g, on average for all collections is 9.5 g. The shape of the berry is rounded-conical, often triangular, the surface is longitudinally tuberous. The color of the berries is dark red with shine. The pulp is intensely red, firm, without a shaft. The taste is sweet and sour.

V. Felk,
gardener,
Petrozavodsk


Calendar of the main work with strawberries. Strawberry varieties - garden and vegetable garden

Cultivation of garden strawberries.

Strawberry - a valuable dietary food product. Its fruits contain sugars (dominated by fructose and glucose), organic acids, dry and pectin substances. Vitamin B content 9 (folic acid) it surpasses all other grown fruits and berries, as well as oranges, grapefruits and grapes. There is more vitamin E in strawberries than in oranges, tangerines, red currants, cherries, cherries and other fruit and berry crops.

Strawberry fruits have therapeutic and prophylactic properties: they regulate cholesterol metabolism and hematopoiesis processes, prevent liver obesity, maintain capillary elasticity, and increase the body's resistance to diseases. Strawberry is a diuretic, useful for kidney and gastrointestinal tract diseases.

Some people may experience allergic reactions when eating strawberries. They can be weakened by eating berries with milk, cream, sour cream, sugar, or half an hour after eating.

Strawberries can bear fruit once a year (usually in cultivation) or several (remontant varieties). Varieties , bearing fruit once a year, there are early, mid-early, semi-late and late. They differ in the size of the berries, their shape, color, aroma.

Most strawberry varieties shoots (whiskers) grow, which take root in the ground with rosettes and form new daughter plants. To get strong seedlings, use the first three rosettes from the mother plant, they are usually stronger than the more distant ones.

The best place for strawberries is warm, flat areas with sufficient moisture. She needs abundant rather than frequent watering. At the same time, before flowering, it is watered with sprinkling - the plants are freed from dust, and they develop better. During flowering and fruiting, watering should only be done around the root, so as not to create conditions for the development of putrefactive bacteria on the berries. Light loamy and sandy loamy fertile weakly acidic and neutral soils are most suitable for strawberries.

In one place, strawberries are grown for three years, collecting two full harvests. In the fourth year, the plants grow old, get sick more often, their yield drops sharply. Therefore, in the third year, new beds should be laid, where strawberries have not grown for the last four years. Saplings are planted two to three weeks after soil preparation. Before it is dug up, fertilized with rotted manure (10-15 kg per square meter) or compost, superphosphate (50 g) and potassium salt (20-30 g). Fresh manure should not be used.

Planting is carried out in late August - early September, or in spring, late April - early May. Before planting, the mustache is shortened to a centimeter. Seedlings are disinfected in water at a temperature of 40 ° C for 15 minutes, after washing the roots from the ground and wrapping the seedlings in clean burlap or cotton cloth. Then it is cooled with clean water, the roots are dipped in a soil mash and planted. The bushes are planted in pre-prepared small holes in rows separated from one another by half a meter, leaving 30 cm between the plants in a row. The apical bud of the plant should be at the level of the soil when planting. The aisle can be used for planting onions, garlic, lettuce, radishes.

Planting of strawberries is also used by squeezing the soil with a metal, or better with a specially prepared wooden spatula, followed by pressing the soil and squeezing the seedling. The latter method is preferable, with it the apical bud is more reliably preserved at the ground level.

Summer residents use and seedling method of growing strawberries ... In this case, the seeds purchased or independently obtained from the berries of the desired variety are sown in March in seedling boxes in moist soil without deepening and lightly compact its upper layer with the palm of your hand. The box is covered with glass or foil and placed in a warm place. Given that the seeds are very small and seedlings appear in almost a month, maximum attention is needed when sowing and caring for. Crowding and thickening of seeds, drying out of the soil should not be allowed.

With the appearance of real leaves, they very carefully undermine the seedlings with a table knife or a special scapula and plant them in another box at intervals between the plants. Care is similar to caring for vegetable seedlings: the plants are watered, fed, they do not allow hypothermia, overheating, etc. Seedlings are planted in the garden in late April - early May in the late afternoon. Since unfavorable climatic conditions are not excluded during this period, it is better to cover the landing with a spunbond along the installed metal or wooden arches.

After planting, the plants are lightly watered, the soil is leveled, mulched with peat or humus. Young plants require maximum attention and care. The soil must be moist. If necessary, the plants are shaded, fed along the aisles with superphosphate (50 g) and potassium (30 g per square meter of planting).

A plot of fruiting strawberries in the spring is cleaned of dry leaves, sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 l of water). Plants are fed with ammonium nitrate (15–20 g per square meter), urea (10–15 g) or complex fertilizer (20–30 g), slightly puffed up. The soil is loosened, the weeds are removed. In early spring, after processing, feeding and loosening, it is advisable to cover the strawberry bed with plastic wrap, preferably with spunbond. It must be removed when the plants begin to overgrow with leaves in order to avoid their burns. You should not rush to remove the film. In this case, the berries grow and ripen one to two weeks earlier. For shelter, you can use both straw and dry grass. These measures help to retain moisture, protect the berries from decay and pollution, increase the temperature of the soil and keep it, facilitate weeding.

Strawberries are inherently bulging, as a result of which the root system is depleted and cannot normally feed the plant. Check the planting at the beginning of the growing season, and if this happens, then mulch the area with peat, mulch with soil, or deepen the plants without filling the growing point.

During the period of active growth of the ovary and leaves (June), the plants are fed with diluted mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15). The third feeding with a complex fertilizer is carried out at the beginning of the laying and formation of flower buds for the next year's harvest (20-25 g per square meter). At the same time, you should deeply loosen the soil, huddle the bushes, without filling the apical bud. Potassium fertilization is not recommended from flowering to harvest.

During the ripening period of the berries, a mustache begins to grow, which depletes the mother plants. The mustache should be removed periodically.

At the same time, the plants are fed with a vegetable mixture (40-50 g per square meter) or compost (3-4 kg), adding superphosphate (40-50 g) and potassium (20-30 g). The latter can be replaced with wood ash (100-150 g).

If you do not take measures for the formation of young roots *, the yield of berries will drop sharply. This requires not only loose soil, fertilized (not with nitrogen fertilizers), but also sprinkling to the base of the plants and in the aisles after harvesting compost or its mixture with soil.

For the winter, the plants are slightly covered with earth (without covering the rosettes), straw or spruce legs.

The question is quite problematic: to mow or not to mow strawberry leaves? Gardeners usually remove leaves that are thickening and diseased.It is recommended to cut them off at the base of the petioles immediately after picking the berries, in no case being late with this operation. This to some extent protects the planting from diseases. After a short time, the plants form new, healthy leaves, which contribute to the formation of flower buds. The harvest next year will not suffer from this. On the contrary, strong, tasty, full-fledged, healthy berries will grow. Treatment of plants with urea (a tablespoon per bucket of water) will help the development of plantings.

Strawberry mite, strawberry-raspberry weevil, slugs harm plants. The presence of the latter is indicated by holes in the leaves and eaten berries.

Slugs are nocturnal predators. During the day they hide under leaves, boards, etc. It is useful in these cases to pollinate the soil around the bushes with ash, and the aisles with fluff lime.


Garden strawberry care - work calendar from spring to autumn

Everyone loves garden strawberries. It is not for nothing that I call this fragrant berry fragrant in Latin. True, in order to grow its decent harvest on the garden plot, you will have to work hard, and from spring to autumn. Here is a calendar of work on caring for strawberries.

Caring for garden strawberries in winter consists in throwing snow from paths to beds. Snow retention is assisted by the layout of brushwood and raspberry branches. Then the wind will not blow off the snow from the garden and the strawberries will winter better.

The main task of caring for strawberries in early spring is to drain melt water from the plantation. In central Russia, the snow cover melts in the first or second decade of April. When the ground is slightly dry, branches and peat mulch can be removed from the strawberry plantings. It is better to sprinkle exposed plant roots with humus. To prevent gray rot, remove diseased and dry leaves. We loosen the beds, sprinkling them with wood ash.

We do an inspection of the plants. We remove bushes twisted by a nematode on the old plantation. Those with wrinkled young leaves, that is, infected with a tick, can be spilled with hot water immediately after the snow melts.

To get an early harvest of garden strawberries, the bed is covered with foil. In hot weather and with the beginning of flowering, it is raised. During this period, even small frosts are especially dangerous for strawberries. If expected, cover the plantation with any nonwoven fabric such as agril, lutrasil, or spunbond.

In May, the main pest of this garden berry wakes up - the strawberry weevil. To combat it, periodically spray the plantings with a solution of garlic. Do not forget to monitor the weather and take appropriate measures. In May, after all, return frosts are also possible.

From the third decade of June, we begin harvesting. To prevent gray rot from starting, pour wood shavings under each strawberry bush, put straw or lay a film.

Until the middle of the month, you need to finish planting strawberries. A garden bed is preliminarily prepared, which is fertilized and watered generously. Garden strawberry whiskers are planted directly in the mud, compacting the ground around them. In this case, it is important that the growth point, the so-called heart, is slightly above the soil level.


3. What should be the soil for strawberries

Of course, strawberries, like most berry crops, love fertile soils. Meanwhile, the introduction of high-moor peat or compost (2-3 buckets) and 50-60 g of mineral water per 1 square meter can make almost any soil suitable for growing strawberries. Just take care to free the area from perennial weeds. This is best done by covering the intended location for the strawberries with black opaque wrap or non-woven material two months before the intended planting.


Garden strawberry varieties

Today there are a huge number of varieties of garden strawberries, which we sometimes mistakenly call strawberries. Garden strawberry is a perennial herb of the rose family. Green large trifoliate leaves are on petioles 15-25 cm high, the inflorescence is a multi-flowered shield. The flowers are usually bisexual from white to deep crimson. Strawberry fruits, which we call berries, are an overgrown receptacle, and real fruits are nuts that are on the surface of the berries.

Distinguish between early, mid-early varieties, middle, late fruiting, remontant (give 2 or more yields) and neutral daylight varieties (hereinafter NSD), bearing fruit from spring to frost.


Plots 2, 3 and 4 - Second spraying of garden strawberries from the weevil, on the buds.

INTA-VIR, deciss, spark, confidor.

Plots No. 2, 3 and 4 - .. We loosen the aisles as necessary. Variety cleaning (we remove all atypical plants).
During the period of the extension of the peduncles and at the beginning of flowering, the plants are fed with a mullein solution (1 liter per 10 liters of water) along with watering.

Site number 1 - Autumn planting

At the end of the month, we dig up the site. Lupines are plowed in when the buds are just beginning to take on color.

  1. Harvesting and processing.
  2. Clonal selection (we mark with a peg the bushes that are most typical for this variety and give the highest yield, at the end of August we will take seedlings from them) and, if necessary, grade cleaning.
  3. Mowing the leaves is carried out on plantings for 2-3 years of fruiting immediately after the end of the collection of berries, without waiting for the ripening of the latter. The mowing height is from 2-3 to 5-7 cm.


Strawberry care

Strawberries, or more correctly garden strawberries, are loved by both children and adults, and in order to get a good harvest of these berries, a correct and timely strawberry care... This fragrant garden berry, translated from Latin as "strawberry" means "fragrant", is very responsive to care and maintenance. By completing the calendar of the main work with garden strawberries throughout the year, you can get a good harvest of this delicacy.
January February.
The main job during these winter months is snow retention. Snow is collected from the paths of the site and thrown onto the strawberry beds. To prevent the wind from blowing off the snow, brushwood is laid out in the beds.
March, April.
During this period, the main task is to divert melt water from the plants. After all the snow has melted, they remove the shelter from the young plantings. If the roots of plants are bare, then they are sprinkled with humus or earth. Sick and dry leaves are cut from the bushes on the fruit-bearing beds with pruning shears. Make sure that the growth point (heart) is at the level of the soil.
At the same time, they are engaged in loosening the soil. During the period April-October, it is necessary to loosen the soil at least six times. Plants are not fertilized, since fertilizers are applied during planting, and strawberries grow in one place for 3-4 years. During loosening, the soil is well sprinkled with wood ash. If there are plants infected with a nematode in the beds, then they are dug up and removed.
May.
For garden strawberries, frosts even - 1 degree are contraindicated, therefore, during frosts, a covering material is placed under the film: lutrasil, spunbod, agril.
During flowering, a terrible pest can attack strawberries - the strawberry weevil. To combat it, use a solution of garlic. After spraying, the beetle flies away, and this procedure must be repeated.

June.
Berry picking begins from 2 to 3 days of June. Wrapping paper and shavings are placed under the strawberry bushes. Black non-woven fabric is laid along the rows. These activities will help get rid of weeds and gray mold.
Planting of garden strawberries ends before June 15. The beds for plants are prepared in advance for 3 - 4 weeks. The soil is dug up and fertilized for 3-4 years. The mustache is planted in mud and the soil is compacted. It is necessary to pay attention to the heart, it should be slightly above the soil level. The next watering is carried out only after a week.
For planting strawberries, a nutritious soil is prepared, which is poured into the planting holes. For 1 sq. m add 1 bucket of compost, 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate (or 4 - 5 tablespoons of complex fertilizer: solution, nitrophoska), 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and a glass of ash. Mix everything well and fill the wells.
July.
After picking the berries, the garden bed is heavily watered and loosened. If ticks are found on the beds, all the leaves are cut off and burned, and the bushes are doused with hot water at a temperature of 65 degrees. After that, the plants are fertilized (1 - 2 teaspoons of complex fertilizer per bush), watered with water and spud. If the plant is healthy, then the leaves are not cut off, but only watering, deep loosening and the mustache are removed.
Aug. Sept.
The bushes are loosened, watered if necessary, and the mustache planting is completed from mid-August to mid-October. From September 15 to September 20, the obligatory watering of the fruit-bearing beds is carried out, since at this time flower buds are laid for the future harvest. The whiskers that appear on the plants are removed.
October.
If autumn is dry, then the plants are watered at the end of the month, weeds are weeded and the soil is loosened. Bushes are also spud or covered with compost, peat or humus.
November.
Mulch the soil after it freezes to a depth of 5 - 8 cm so that the plant is not pushed out of the soil. For snow retention, raspberry stalks, brushwood, Jerusalem artichoke leaves are laid out.
December.
With a small layer of snow cover, it is collected on the paths and covered with strawberry beds.
Recommended varieties of garden strawberries.
• Early (ripen in the 2nd - 3rd decade of June): Early Macherauch, Zarya, Junia Smides.
• Medium ripening: Beauty of Zagorya, Zenith, Festivalnaya, Nadezhda, Troitskaya.
• Late varieties (ripen at the end of July): Cinderella, Zenga-Zengana, Talisman.
Correct strawberry care - this is not only a lot of delicious berries, but also the pleasure of the results of your labor.

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